Cycling Italy, Venice to Florence

Time for an adventure. Two weeks in Italy with the first half on a self-guided cycling tour from Venice to Florence then a week ‘on foot’ visiting Florence, Pisa and Rome. Sounds like a plan…

So this is a two-part adventure. The first half was via eurobike who arrange the accommodation, provide a bike and route details. I opted for some extra days at either end; compared with the overall price the extra cost is minor and takes the pressure off arriving and travel arrangements.

So Friday 18th August and its an 03:20 coach which means an even earlier start to walk to the coach pickup.

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starting in Venice

Then a 06:10 flight from Birmingham International. The strain of an early start was eased by treating myself to a full cooked breakfast [1]. It always jolts me when catching a first flight out from an airport how much activity there is at 4am.

Arrived at Venice and checked in to the first stay at Mestre which is on the mainland. And it’s still only about 10:30am. So caught a bus into Venice and enjoyed a days walking and viewing. The early start dissolved in the warmth and sunlight. The next day was a full day for Venice and I’d booked into some tours of the Doge’s place and St.Marks Basilica, both stunning and wonderfully discussed by the guides. Booking the tours is worth it not just for the commentary but for the prepaid tickets that get you past snaking entrance queues saving literally hours. Once a tour is finished it’s easy enough to continue exploring since you haven’t yet left the building!! And you’ve the time since you didn’t spend it in a queue.

The next day, Sunday, commenced the cycling. After a check-in and briefing at the hotel, your setup with your bike. The provided bike is a very well maintained rugged pannier carrying hybrid, obviously chosen for continual utility use. Just don’t expect to be doing some kind of speed thing. Eurobike do offer the chance to bring your own bike, but frankly I didn’t want to consider it. The accommodation is excellent quality, more than I’d require to be honest and bike friendly. But hey, a bit of luxury on holiday…

The route is provided through a booklet and GPX, so there wasn’t any problem with navigation as my Garmin happily beeped and indicated the expected turns. The route is in Google maps if you’d like to follow it down from Venice. Each morning take your luggage down to reception (which for me wasn’t much anyway, I travel with one small backpack) for it to miraculously appear at the next hotel - which is a huge attraction of such a tour. Take just your ‘day-bag’ and set off and arrive at your destination when you like. The terrain is mostly flat and easy, the routes (aside from some short stretches) are on quiet side-roads past fields and farms. The distances are comfortable, between 35km and 65km so I just tootled along soaking in the warmth, air and greenery.

Others on the tour are following the same route to the same hotels and on identical bikes. So occasional stretches with casual company, but mostly in my own thoughts. Lunchtime stops in small towns for a coffee and light eat in the shade of a pavement cafe. Very continental.

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Welcome serenity

Quickly realised that mid-day heat is not for cycling. On leaving Cavarzere with a bought salad [2] I was looking for somewhere to stop and rest when a small chapel with shade and benches appeared. Enjoyed the salad and a nap and felt wonderfully at peace. I have to remind myself more, this is why I cycle.

Most times I’d a arrive at the destination hotel around mid-afternoon. After a quick wash and change there was usually chance to catch something like a museum before it closed. The Museo Delta Antico in Comacchio showcased the Roman artifacts recovered from a sunken and preserved cargo vessel and the Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche in Faenza is just exceptional.

Wander around town, find somewhere to eat in the evening. Stumble on Dantes tomb in Ravenna. Arriving at Florence on the Friday felt all too soon. So onto part two of the adventure!

[1] a rarity, honest.

[2] An Italian supermarket bought salad is something to behold.